Five Days in Cordova
Introduction
Throughout the year, Cordova, Alaska, draws me like a magnet; and when I see Copper River wild salmon on sale at my local supermarket, the longing to go there again is even stronger.
In 2004, I spent a summer vacation there. I will always remember my experiences then....
On that occasion, I arrived in Cordova on what for Cordovans was a very, very hot day, but seemed quite normal to me. The temperature was over 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and for Cordova, located in Alaska's Copper River Delta, that was indeed hot. The atmosphere was also hazy, due to a forrest fire.
My flight from Seattle, Washington, was about three hours long, and included a short stop at Anchorage. Flight time from Anchorage to Cordova was about 35 minutes. Visitors to Cordova must travel there by boat, ferry, or plane—there are no roads or rails to Cordova.
Be sure to check out the “References” section for links to maps, regional & local information, historical & cultural studies, and rafting information. Note: many images appear hazy due to the forest fire.
Day One
My first good look at Cordova was from Ski Hill, which overlooks Cordova, its harbor, and Orca Inlet to the west, and to the east, Eyak Lake and the Copper River Highway (which passes the airport).
Blueberries were ready for picking on the mountain slope. The ubiquitous Bunchberry plants dotted the slope with their bright-red berries.
Cordova from Ski Hill
Harbor
Bunchberry
Eyak Lake
After leaving Ski Hill, there was still time for a short hike up the Eyak River Trail. From the trail, the view of the mountains was spectacular.
View from the Eyak River Trail
Later, I hiked along a nearby stream through the dense, moss-carpeted, rain forest. Spawning salmon filled the stream from bank to bank.
From the home of my Alaskan relatives, overlooking the stream, I watched the sunset paint Heney Pk with warm orange-red tones while I listened to the music of the jumping salmon in the water below.
Forest Trail
Moss
Devil's Club
Reflections
Going Home
Salmon Bank to Bank
Home
Heney Pk
Day Two
The next day, day two of my vacation, was again hot (for Cordovans, that is), so I spent the day with my friends picnicking and swimming at the Alaganic Slough Recreation Site, located in the Copper River Delta.
For children, there is nothing to beat a mix of sand and water on a hot day; and for Licorice, the Labrador retriever that accompanied us, the only problem was coaxing the humans into throwing a stick into the water. Our arms gave out long before Licorice tired of retrieving the stick for another throw.
Licorice
Picnic
Sand and Water
Sand Tracks
Alaganik Slough
Dusky Canada Geese
Later in the day, I hiked to Crater Lake. It is 2.4 miles to Crater lake and is a moderate hike. The trail climbs rapidly through a forest of spruce and hemlock. The plant life around the lake is varied and includes the dwarf blueberry with its sweet, delicious berries.
From Crater Lake, the view of Orca Inlet and Orca Bay was spectacular.
On the Way to Crater Lake
Crater Lake
Dwarf Blueberries
Enjoying the View
View from Crater Lake
Day Three
Day three of my vacation was reserved for a trip to Sheridan Lake and Glacier with the Alaska River Rafters. A bus brought us to the trailhead that would take us to the lake. The rafts were soon hitched up for the trip to the water and participants selected their waterproof boots.
A short lecture about bears prepared us in case we met any. We then began the short hike to the launch site. Along the way, we were treated to magnificent mountain scenery and lovely flowering plants. We also listened to a short lecture on the glacier and moraine.
After putting on our survival gear and listening to raft-safety instructions, we boarded the rafts and were soon underway.
We were awed by the flower-covered slopes, Sheridan Glacier, and towering mountains.
On our way to the river rapids, ice clogging the route needed to be removed by our guides to allow the rafts to pass and the rafts had to be pulled over some shalow spots. Once in clear water, we had to put our cameras into waterproof bags and hang on for our trip through the rapids at the outlet of the lake.
Sadly, the Alaska River Rafters is no longer in business.
Alaska River Rafters
Boarding the Bus
Trying on Boots
Lecture: Bears
Sheridan Panorama
Lecture: Moraine and Glacier
Hiking to the Lake
Lecture: Survival Gear
Putting on Survival Gear
Lecture: Raft Safety
Into the Raft
Underway
Pulling the Raft Over Shallows
Clearing Blocking Ice
Sheridan Lake and Glacier
In the Lake
Last View Before Running the River
Day Four
On day four, our small family group traveled along the Copper River Highway to Childs Glacier.
Although four of the five glaciers feeding the Copper River Delta were named after Civil War Generals—Sherman, Scott, Sheridan, and Miles—Childs Glacier was not.
In 1884, Lieutenant William R. Abercrombie, who headed the first United States military exploration of the Copper River, named Childs Glacier after George Washington Childs of Philadelphia.
The glacier is some 300 feet high and is possibly the most active glacier in Alaska. Visitors can often observe huge masses of ice calving from the glacier into the river below.
On the drive back to Cordova, I stopped to photograph two beautiful trumpeter swans, which were standing on a beaver lodge. Later, I stopped again to photograph a family of swans, which included three cygnets.
Childs Glacier and Copper River
Childs Glacier
Childs Glacier from the Viewing Area
River Beauty
Trumpeter Swans
Day Five
On my last day in Cordova, day five, I packed my camera, water, and some food and headed for the Power Creek Trail. The trail is 4.2 miles long and ends at the Power Creek Cabin.
Along the way, I stopped to photograph the beaver dams and lodges—and to sample the wild Alaska blueberries.
The end of the trail was worth the long hike. The cabin was beautiful, and faced towering mountain peaks. From the covered deck of the cabin, I could only sit back and marvel at the mountain scenery.
Power Creek Trail
On the Trail
Power Creek Power Plant
Blueberries
Beaver Dam
Beaver Lodges
Mountain Stream
Power Creek Cabin
View from Power Creek Cabin
After returning to Cordova, there was still enough time for a short hike along the Heney Ridge Trail.
The trail begins on the edge of the Orca Inlet near Bluff Pt at Hartney Bay and winds through dense forest. For the photographer, using a tripod is a must for taking sharp photographs in the dim light. I was particularly interested in photographing the mosses and mushrooms on the forest floor.
The hike ended my 5-day summer vacation in Cordova.
Clouds Over Heney Ridge
Heney Ridge Trailhead
Staircase
Color in the Moss
Hiking Through the Woods
View from the Trail
Stream
Home Away From Home
Durning my vacation in Cordova, I stayed in a wonderful apartment that included a colorful garden. Between my hikes, I spent time photographing the flowers and insects in the garden.
Enchanted Garden
Bee on Flower
About the Images
The images were taken with a Canon EOS 10D. For most of the images, I used a 16-35mm lens. Some of the images were taken using a 28-135mm lens. Although some shots were taken on a tripod, most were hand held. The images were taken in the "raw" format. All images received some out-of-camera processing in Photoshop. The image of Licorice is a composite of two images: one image was of Licorice and the other of the Alaganic Slough Recreation Site.